- Distance: 19.9km (137.3km total)
- Ascent/Descent: 1151m up, 444m down
- Time: 8 hr 7 min
Nice cool morning to start and a moderately steep (yet easier)
uphill. Then just hot, on a south-facing slope, with an unwelcome
bonus of a 700m drop to our sleeping spot.
An easy walk down the road, then up the hill, and we were at the high point of the day, 1400m. Lots of other hikers around as well--so different than the first few days.
Then down along a ridge, and up and down along that same mostly shadeless ridge, taking breaks in the shade as the temperature moved into the low-30s. Ugh. No breeze either. Great views, particularly down to the valleys where the buildings no longer had the red tile roofs of Basque country, but the gray roofs I'd expect in the France. To the east we can see the first big peak of the Pyrenees, the Pic d'Anie at 2504m, looking like a child's drawing of a mountain peak, just pointy.
We slogged along--the sandwich today was great, more salami/cheese/mayo than the standard dry ham-cheese we've been getting--and the trail wasn't too horrible, even on the last 500m drop to Auberge Logibar at 400m elevation. It was just the heat, hovering in the 32-35C range (90 to 95F), and we both finished off our 5 liters of water as we arrived.
Dorm-style accomodations, two bunk beds in our room, a cool shower, and beverages then dinner will round out the day. A bit too many flies, no screens on the windows, but we'll make due.
Still looking forward to getting and staying in the high country, and not this low elevation. We were really expecting more moderate weather--typical temps this time of year are around 20C/68F--which is great for walking. This year (probably the coolest of the next hundred) the 30+ temps are very unwelcome, not just by us but by everyone here as well.
A bit uphill, then a long moderate downhill into a sharp valley that we knew had payback, and then a stupid steep uphill. Nothing really memorable, yet we were surprised we'd already gone 10km in almost four hours and it was 11:15, we both guessed it felt like a bit over two hours.
We were kinda interested in going up to see the neolithic dolmen on the actual GR10, but that was another 400m up a hill and back down again, and maybe 3km more, and I suspect they were just reconstructions, but what do I know? So we avoided all that--today has 1600m of elevation gain or something--just to save some oomph for later in the day.
We stopped at a little cafe, then up the 6km to Iraty. The topo said there were actual switchbacks--perhaps for cross-country skilling in winter?--and there were, so the track was uphill but not that challenging, ending up on a ridge with a chalet or two.
Big dark clouds and thunder appeared in the east rather quickly, so we had a bit more motivation to get the our lodging. We had the dinner option, so the restaurant next door brought us meals, and we sat down in the fancy-ish chalet. The Belgians showed up to share the chalet--and we chatted over beer and wine.